Thursday, January 15, 2009

Bourbon Steak

Last week I went to Bourbon Steak, the new Michael Mina restaurant at the Four Seasons in Georgetown (David Varley is executive chef). I had sky high expectations, given that the foodie circles were buzzing from night one of the press dinner (I was on night two), and I wasn't disappointed.

For starters, I had the butter poached Maine lobster, which was perched atop a sweet potato crepe and bathed in Thai curry cream. The combination was riveting — I grew up on the school that anything on lobster besides butter is criminal, and it hasn't been until recently that I've come to really try lobster in other variations. Here, the Thai flavors create a sweetness that is really quite lovely, and the consistency of the crepe is a nice complement to the lobster.

My entree was the filet mignon, which was perfect. Mina's steaks are poached in clarified butter to ensure uniform doneness, and mine was wonderfully medium rare.

Our table split the lobster pot pie, which was made with vegetables, brandied lobster cream and a flaky crust. We also split a number of side dishes. My favorite was the caramelized Brussels sprouts, which included bacon, natch, but the black truffle macaroni and cheese and the creamed spinach were also nicely executed.

Also notable? A caviar parfait I'm not sure is on the menu, and the rolls, which are topped with truffle butter.

Desserts were less satisfying, but that's par for the course when you're not a dessert connoisseur. I liked the passion fruit panna cotta the best, which was wonderfully refreshing and smooth. We also had the brown butter frangipane tart, the carmelized bananas and the coconut candy bar.

Overall, a wonderful meal, and definitely recommended the next time you're in Georgetown. Appetizers, $9-$22, entrees, $29-$72, desserts, $11. If you go for lunch, look out for salads with meat and seafood.

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